December 30, 2007
Spanish Pork Ass that Kicks
Spanish Pork Ass that Kicks Ass (A variation on Cochinita Pibil or Puerto Rican Pernil)
Ingredients Needed:
For Braising the pork:
7-10# Pork Ham (Butt) or Shoulder, Skin and Fat on
1 or 2 Large Spanish Onions
1 Head of Garlic
1 or 2 Large Carrots
Leek Greens from 1 Large leek (reserve the whites for something else)
2-3 Tbsp Pimenton de la Vera (I have this if you need to borrow it)
1/4# smoked pork belly or hock (preferably apple wood smoked)
~2 qt Brown Chicken Stock (if commercially made I recommend: Pacific natural Free Range Chicken Broth or Kitchen Basics. Bring to Boil before use.)
2 16oz Dark Ale of your Delight
4 Tbsp-1/4 cup Olive Oil (E.V.O.O. or Pure)
For Brine:
1qt Water
1 Tbsp Black Peppercorns
1 tsp Juniper Berries
1 1/2'ed head of Garlic
1 bunch of thyme
8 Dry Bay leaves or 4 Fresh
1 tsp Chili Flake
1 cup/225 g Salt
1/2 cup/125 Sugar or Honey or Maple Syrup
3qt of Ice
1 piece of 8" x 8" Cheesecloth
1 piece of 12" food safe twine
Equipment Needed:
A large deep 8qt pot or deep roasting pan.
Cheesecloth (noted above)
Butchers Twine
Large Mixing Bowl for washing stuff.
A conventional oven that goes to 275 degrees Fahrenheit.
A refrigerator with space for this brining pork.
Parchment Paper, large enough to cover your pot.
A Wooden Spoon
Large Slotted Spoon
Brine Procedure (Yields ~ 4qt)
Note: Before we make brine, its important to talk about what we're going to do with it. Brine is a great way of seasoning a piece of meat, especially lighter colored meats. The action of brining brings salt and water into the cells of the meat, it also lets it out, some some loss or change of color will occur (not ideal for red meats). Because of the osmosis action and the chemical nature of salt on the cells it allows the meat to absorb more water on the uptake, hence keeps the juices in and allows for more friendly cooking of meats. To brine meats you need to use a cold brine solution. I like to combine a ratio of ice and hot water solution to create a brine that is ready to use. This recipe is taken straight out of Michael Ruhlman's Charcuterie book, but is much similar to one I use, but don't have handy at the moment that doesn't call for sugar.
Making the Brine
First, make a sachet. It's like a teabag for herbs.
We need to cut piece of cheesecloth large enough to contain all of the ingredients, 8" x 8" should be big enough.
We also need a length of food safe twine about 12" to be safe. Lay the cheesecloth flat on a clean surface. 1/2 your garlic head horizontally.
Place both halves all of the juniper, black peppercorns, bunch of thyme, chili flake in the center of the cheesecloth.
Now flip the bottom of the cheesecloth about 1/2 way over the ingredients and try ans bunch the ingredients together well below, firmly begin to roll the ingredients up like a cloth log. When about half way fold in the ends to keep it all from falling out. While rolling the ingredients try and tuck the roll of ingredients into the cheesecloth so that we end up with a tight log of herbs. Next, firmly grip the twine with one hand and pull under the sachet, about 1/6 of the length should hang out for you to grip. With the other hand firmly wrap one end of the log, gradually crossing over the center to firmly wrap the other end coming together in the middle and securing firmly. The idea being you don't want this to fall out into the brine.
Now make to make the brine, add the sachet, salt, sugar (or honey or syrup), and 1qt of water and bring to a boil to dissolve. Turn off and let steep for about 5 minutes. Pour the hot liquid over the 3qt of ice. Your brine is ready to use when all the ice is dissolved and the liquid is cold. If you need to add a little more ice or cold water, it won't hurt the brine that much to do so. The important thing is to have it cold. Do not remove the sachet.
Preparing the meat for Brining:
I like to rinse any meat i buy. Unless I butchered the meat myself, I want to get any fecal or other matter/bacteria off that can come off with a good cold rinse. Keep in mind that if I were sauteing things would be different, I would then need to dry it well afterward. Some claim this changes the texture of the meat or washes off flavor. Those idiots have obviously never seen an animal butchered. you'd have one hell of a messy piece of meat without it. Score the skin of the pork before bring, as it'll save a step later and allow slightly deeper penetration. Cross hatch the skin about 3/8" deep, almost or to the fat. The skin is tough so you need a sharp knife (or use a serrated) and a good steady hand.
Brining the Meat:
If using a deep 8-10qt pot, you should be able to submerge the whole piece of meat in the brine (with sachet) by placing a small pot or a few plates over the meat to keep it submerged. If using a wider pot, and you can't submerge the meat, you'll have to flip the meat during brining and brine for twice as long. Typically I would brine an 8-10# piece of meat for 8 to 12 hours at a minimum. Cut short for time, 6 hours won't be noticed too much.
Remove and drain well after 8-12hrs, or 24 if you had to flip.
Dump the brine, don't reuse.
Preparing for the Braise:
(While the meat is finishing brining. Get all your ingredients ready and measured out.)
- Peel and 1/4 your onions.
- Peel and cut the carrots into large chunks. 1-2" long 1-2" wide.
- Cut the leeks vertically down the middle, and then into 2" long segments. Rinse in cold water, several changes until no sand appears in the bottom of the bowl.
- Bring the Chicken stock to a boil. I find this kills the store bought flavor, and if you have your own in the freezer or fridge, this should be done to kill bacteria.
- When the Meat is done and drained, rub a good amount of the pimenton de la vera all over the flesh of the ,meat. Rub well and deep. This is where you give the food your love.
- Open the 2 bottles of Dark Ale. Start drinking one and get ready to put the other in with everything else.
Braising the Meat:
Aside: There are many ways to do this. I am going for the easier less involved method.
- Pre-heat your oven to 250-275ºF.
- Put enough oil to coat your pan and bring to high heat, almost smoking hot.
- Add your mirepoix (onions, carrots, & leeks). Caramelize, turning slowly, when the have a nice brown (not black) color deglaze with your beer. Scrape the pan with a wooden spoon to get the good stuff (the sucs) off the bottom of the pan.
- Add the hot Chicken Stock.
- Add the ham hock or piece of smoked bacon.
- Next place the meat skin side up in the pot, carefully place, as you don't want to splash your self. The liquid should come a little more than half way up.
- Measure out a parchment lid while the pan is still cool. Tear a piece large enough to fully cover the pot. Fold in half. Fold again. Fold again. Fold again. Now you have a nice skinny triangle. Hold over the pot measuring the point from the center, cut about an inch overlapping the pot. When you unfold, you will have a nice cartouche lid. This we'll use later.
- Place the mixture in the oven. Cook for 2-3hrs uncovered, until the fat has rendered nicely and the skin is starting to brown.
- Cover with the cartouche, fit it snugly into the pan.
- Cook overnight or for about 12 hours. Turn over at the half way point.
Increase the temperature of the oven to 350-400ºF for about 15minutes, to re-crisp the skin side. Use a metal slotted spoon to separate and divvy up. Enjoy!
Embellishment:
Remove the meat from the pot and strain the liquid through a chinois into another sauce pan. Degrasser (de-grease using a ladle to skim the surface). Reduce over medium heat to a glaze and use to finish meat.
Posted by wayne at 01:51 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
